| * | For seats, consider synthetics (as opposed to wool or leather) because of possible water damage. |
| * | Use closed foam insulation. |
| * | Reds and blues fade fastest, earth tones and greys are better from that perspective. |
| * | Seat needs to support three areas. Lumbar, legs (thigh support) and the lower 1/3 of the skull. |
| * | Ideal seat is 15" off the floor. |
| * | Seat should be constructed of three densities of foam. The base should be 70 which is very hard. The middle should be 40. There should be a thin top foam layer of 20 density which is cosmetic, with a soft feel. |
| * | The base (70) foam should be 1" thick. The middle (40) foam should be 1" - 2". The top (20) foam should be 1/2" to 1" thick. |
| * | The angle between the seat back and bottom should be 105 degrees. |
| * | For the lumbar support, cut the foam in a triangle 1½" thick, 13" high and width of the seat. Keep fitting to get the correct height and thickness. Glue in place. |
| * | The thigh support should be 1" density 40, and it should roll over the front. It should just touch the back of the thighs, but not cause pressure. |
| * | For the head support, make a roll at the neck and use 1" foam to cover and go over the back. |
| * | Build up side supports. |
| * | Will need to put rigging and rods in to keep the cushions in place using "pull in points". The fabric can be tied to these using buttons. |
| * | Shoulder harness attachment should be able to withstand 9 times body weight. 15 degrees is the optimum angle from the shoulder to the attach point. 0 to 30 degrees is the maximum for the range. Can use a cable to pull back to a structural point, with 15 degrees to the first attach point, then a cable to the back of the plane. |
| * | The seat belt should attach at a 45 degree angle and should have a strength of 12 times body weight. |
| * | Need a commercial sewing machine to do the upholstery properly, with "walking foot needle feed". Sewing should be at 12 stitches per inch. |
| * | Make paper patterns and fit them before cutting fabric. |
| * | Sew on one side, turn over and sew again a second time with the second stitching just offset from (not on top of) the first. This will give a better fit. |
| * | For side panels, make patterns out of "engineering paper" from an art supply store. It is actually a type of cardboard. |
| * | Think about sections of panels so they are easier to fit in and out. |
| * | Make patterns a little big and do the final trim in the aircraft. |
| * | Make sure seats, cushions and panels fit properly and can come in and out of aircraft before upholstering. Mark any features (pleats, etc.) on foam. |
| * | Rails, hold with velcro. Fabric and foam fit in rails. Tuck carpet into rail. |
| * | 1/8" closed cell urethane foam, glue ½" soft (20 density) to it. Stretch fabric over, sew velcro to it. Sew pattern in (lightweight cloth on back of foam). |
| * | Plex canopy means the aircraft will not be too quiet. |
| * | Head liners - one way is to use two wires. Sew canvas loops to the fabric and run wires through the loops. Other ways are hard or semi-rigid foam then stretch and glue fabric and roll over edges. Use 3M 8410 glue and spray it with a cheap spray gun. CAMI 300 is a temporary glue to put in foam then cut to fit. Start in center and stretch out. Or rods in bows. |
| * | Wool is easiest material to use for headliners because it is stretchy and can shrink. Put boiling pot of water on a hot plate inside with the doors closed (water dripping down the windows) so that it will shrink and fit. |
| * | Reinforce seat pans with ribs 2" apart for structural strength. |